Hair care highlights in humidity and soft/hard water
Two years ago I went to Turkey. The holiday was so pleasant and relaxing though my hair did not feel the same on day 3. While I was relaxing my hair slowly turned into a nightmare: brittle, tangly, sticky mess.
Afterward, I figured out what was going on. The humid climate and soft milky water in the hotel made my hair feel horrible. I didn’t know at the time, that these two factors can play a major role in hair care.
High humidity means a lot of moisture in the air (especially, near open water or in rainy climates). The more porous the hair the more it reacts to humidity due to more loose cuticles. This process can affect the protein structure. The cuticle gets swollen over time and hair begins to lack protein. The protein-moisture balance is important to keep the hair structure in shape. Moisturizing products make the hair softer, and protein products - stronger.
After that vacation, it took me a while to understand how to get my hair back on track. So today I want to share with you my strategy on how to help keep the hair in shape in a humid climate or on a trip.
The rules
There are a few rules to remember if you live or visit a region with high humidity. The slight difference comes due to water hardness.
The first combination is humid climate and soft milky water. The softness of the water and a soft shampoo (sulfate-free, for example) can not cleanse the hair well, humidity is loading hair with moisture and a nourishing mask puts the cherry on top. The hair becomes overloaded with moisturizing ingredients. Due to soft water a mild shampoo makes the hair even more soft and doesn’t cleanse it as well. It becomes sticky, tangly, and dry at the same time.
The solution is to choose a good sulfate shampoo, use it daily, and opt for a more deep cleansing once a week. If your hair is already in that sticky-tangly state, then a good cleanse with deep cleansing shampoo 2 times in a row should improve the situation.
The second important step is to apply a protein mask (hydrolyzed proteins, keratin, amino acids, and ceramides work). Use it consistently for 2-3 washes and then opt for a conditioner (not a moisturizing one). You should feel the difference from the first wash.
Use a lighter leave-in conditioner or leave-in cream. I would not suggest using hair oil in such a climate.
In mild soft water, you will benefit from a deeper cleansing shampoo and a protein mask. The second combination is humid climate and hard water. This changes the routine to a milder/everyday shampoo (sulfate-free ones included). Since the water is harder, you should not use a deeper cleansing shampoo often (every other week should be enough).
The protein mask should be used once a week and daily opt for a mask with silicons or film-formers. It will protect the hair from outside humidity. You can also use a conditioner from time to time (again, not a moisturizing one).
I would suggest using a leave-in cream, specially formulated for the humid climates (like the red one from Kerastase).
In hard water, you will benefit from a combination of deeper cleansing shampoo and mild one, plus a film-forming mask. The Products
Let’s talk more about the products. I have been a loyal fan of the brand Kérastase and L'Oréal Professionnel for years. These are French hair care brands owned by L'Oréal Paris. This means you get patented ingredients, balanced formulas, and great packaging. The deeper cleansing shampoos first:
The black one is from Kérastase: Pré-Cleanse Régénérant. This is a pre-shampoo that is used before your daily shampoo to cleanse the hair from pollution and buildup. The cleansing base includes sulfates, charcoal, and salicylic acid. Other ingredients are hyaluronic acid, abyssine, vitamin E, bisabolol, and ceramides. The hair is not stripped, yet well cleansed. Do not be off-put by the black color, it doesn’t stain the hair or the bathroom.
L'Oréal Metal Detox shampoo is a good alternative to a deep cleansing shampoo. It is sulfate-free, has good cleansing power, and removes metal + chlorine buildup from the hair. It does not provoke frizziness, the hair is soft and supply. Works wonders in hard water and on colored hair (especially, blonde).
My more day-to-day version of sulfate shampoo(or the 2nd shampoo after deeper cleansing one) is the Genesis: Bain Hydra-Fortifiant. It cleanses quite well, you can feel the hair is squicky-clean, but not stripped. It also prevents hair fall and has nice antioxidants like Edelweiss Native Cells and Ginger Root.
The sulfate-free shampoo I prefer is Chroma Absolu: Bain Riche Chroma Respect. This is mild and has good ingredients like lactic acid and Centella asiatica. Although Chroma Absolu has a specific strong fragrance, it does not irritate my nose or my sensitive scalp. In hard water, this shampoo makes my hair soft and prevents it from getting frizzy in humid weather. This is a unique characteristic of this product.
Two masks that I prefer are also from Kérastase.
The first one, which is loaded with proteins and amino-acids is Résistance: Thérapiste. The product helps to reduce breakage and “fill in” the cuticle, supports the hair structure like a “bandage“. Unique ingredients like Fibra-Kap molecules (6 amino-acids, wheat protein hydrolat, SP 94 - safflower glycoside), ceramides, Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide, and Myrothamnus Leaf Extract strengthen the fiber from root to tip.
This is my mask number one in humidity and both harsh and soft water. It restores the moisture-protein balance, coats the hair, and balances everything out.
The second mask is Après-Soleil from the Sun-line. It is specifically formulated for vacations near the sea or in the mountains. The main ingredients are coconut water, silicones, glycerin, and ceramides. This combination provides a good moisturizing effect in hard water, wraps the hair in a seamless film, and protects it from humidity. Ceramides help to repair hair strands and UV-filter shields the hair. Comes in a gel form, works fast, and does not weigh the hair down.
The leave-ins I prefer are the spray from Mediceuticals or the Kérastase Crème UV Sublime. Mediceuticals spray has a light milky consistency, UV filter, hydrolyzed keratine, hydrolyzed protein, glycerine, and panthenol. It is both a heat protector, UV protector, and detangler. Kérastase Creme is a unique CC-cream type of product that moisturizes the hair, has UV protection, and instantly transforms the strands into healthy locks.
So, these are my tips ant tricks and the products that help me survive the vacation no mater what type of water I stumble in.